Wednesday 23 February 2011

Crinoline confessions for a Wednesday morning


OK, Debbie, climb out of that tree and let's get down to business.

Yesterday, I hightailed it to a few local fabric dives to hunt for crinoline supplies. 

I also swung by my local Goodwill and checked under a few wedding gowns -- were you expecting Vera Wang?  One dress, a 3/4 length, had a full slip with two rows of net sewn onto the slip itself.  It looked something like this, with a layer of gathered net stitched midway down, and then another layer along the hem gathered more densely:
 

It seemed to provide a lot of volume.  I am wondering, wouldn't this be sturdier -- and easier -- than layers of tulle or net stitched to each other?

The alternative, of course, is a traditional crinoline, which I'll probably end up making.  Here's one made primarily of tulle, and you can see that while it's flouncy, it lacks the height I'm looking for.


Net provides the height, but it's coarse and need to be covered up with something.  Both require an underskirt between the tulle/net and one's legs.



Anyway, here's what I've picked up so far.  Not sure if this is exactly what I want, but I think I'm on the right track.  All of it was in the $1-2 a yd. price range.



Stiff net, about 4 yds of a 60" bolt.



Ivory tulle, 4 yds, about 120" wide.



Ivory acetate (or something resembling good quality slip or lining material), 2 yds.



I'm wondering if it would be preferable to use cotton, or a stretch material of some sort for the underskirt.  Thoughts?

What I am envisioning is the yoke/slip top made of the ivory acetate with two layers of net divided into three tiers.  Then I'd cover the whole thing with a layer or two of fluffy tulle.  Ideally I'd like to be able to parachute off my balcony in it and not break anything.

Today I'll be experimenting with my sewing machine feet on these fabrics.  I have a few rufflers but I'm just not sure how well they'll hand tulle or net.  Most of the tutorials I've seen online show the gathers being made by hand using basting thread.  I don't have a gathering foot.

I can also gather with my serger by adjusting the differential feed but I'm not sure if the gathers will be dense enough.

I guess I'll need some trim -- lace, satin ribbon -- certainly something to enclose the rough raw edges of the net where the tiers attach, like so:



I already have elastic as well a few hook-and-eye variations.  It's an adventure, right?

In closing, thanks for all your helpful comments and crinoline resources yesterday.

The variety of these veil-like fabrics available is incredible and there's so much to learn. I know a number of you recommended just buying a ready-made crinoline, but I need to take this on.

When Cathy is ready to walk down the aisle, I want to be ready!


Happy Wednesday, everybody!

UPDATE:  Happy Day -- it works with the net, and on a treadle, no less!



Tulle ruffles too -- top row serger with differential feed adjustment, bottom row ruffler:



I think we're in business.  Veils for everyone!

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