Showing posts with label 50s glamour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 50s glamour. Show all posts

Monday, 27 June 2011

Models Then and Models Now



Friends, I'm back and ready to take on the world.  Of modeling.

Suzy Parker.  Dovima.  Jean Patchett.  Lisa Fonssagrives.

These are just a few of the most famous models of the 1950s and early 60s.  Like today's models, they were beautiful.  They were young.  And they were ballerina-skinny.





In those days, models modeled and that's about it.  They didn't star in reality shows (though Suzy Parker did have a role in The Best of Everything and a few other films) and they weren't seen much outside of magazine layouts and ads.  But they were recognizable and certainly embodied a standard of beauty and glamour (maybe more the latter than the former) few non-models could ever match.


Readers, what's different about models then and now?  Why do so many people focus on models today and critique their (genetically) tall, thin bodies? 



Haven't models always merely represented a highly art-directed ideal, human clothes hangers that showed off a dress to its best effect?



When I was looking at photos of models then and models now, the greatest difference I noticed was the amount of skin models are expected to display today.  Skimpy underwear, bikinis, nude shots -- almost nothing is left to the imagination.




Though Fifties models appeared in swimsuits, these tended to be modest one-piece numbers, as was the style back then, and the images were never sexually provocative, but rather, wholesome.


Direct sexuality was the stuff of pin-ups and other "adult" material (think Betty Page).  Today there's very little difference, aesthetically.  And this isn't just true of female models -- men are also expected to pose provocatively in underwear or nothing at all.


In the Fifties, women's clothes may have been restrictive and demanded corsets and cinchers, but the models bodies were covered.  Nudity was rare.



It's as if today, when so much of fashion is standardized, we're more interested in the hanger than the clothes.

Wise readers, your thoughts.

Just so we're on the same page, I'm operating under the assumptions that 1) models are more visible today, thanks to television and the Internet; 2) modeling itself is much more mainstream and often seen as a springboard to an acting or business career; 3) models -- their weight and how they are represented -- are more a focus of women than they were in generations past.  You may or may not agree with these.

Does the increase in nudity reflect our more body-conscious, sexually liberated times?  Does the constant exposure to models' (photoshopped always) bodies create more self-image problems for women than the more covered-up, highly stylized models of generations ago?

I'll have more to say about this later in the week, but why do these Banana Republic ads look like children playing dress-up...



...compared to the real thing?





Is it the makeup, or is it a life spent wearing corsets, heels, and gloves, that make the original models look mature and comfortable and the 2011 models look synthetic, derivative, and awkward?

Jump in!

Sunday, 5 June 2011

Strapless Gowns - yea or nay?


Friends, I need your help.  What do you think of the strapless look?

Strapless gowns became popular in the Postwar Forties, ruled in the bosom-worshiping Fifties, held on through the early Sixties, and have made a major comeback recently with the popularity of the breast implant and vintage red carpet looks.


Back in the day they were considered daring, and initially only the sexiest movie stars would be costumed in them.  Vixen characters went strapless; wives and girls-next-door didn't.  Neglected wives or divorcees could go either way.

Ava Gardner and Rita Hayworth could definitely pull off the strapless look.



So could Dolores Gray (left) and Joan Collins (far right) in the dreadful MGM remake of The Women, retitled The Opposite Sex.  Notice how loyal wife, June Allyson, by contrast, is covered up.


Lena Horne, almost always referred to as sultry, rocked the strapless look.


Judy Garland...not so much.


For day, strapless looks odd, or maybe it's just this cigarette-girl-on-top, malt-shop-date-on-the-bottom dress modeled here by glamorous Arlene Dahl.  (Do buxom beauties still stroll strapless through nightclubs shouting Cigars, Cigarettes?)


Cousin Cathy loves the strapless look; I'm on the fence, especially for her.  To me they're a little over the (hardly there) top and with Cathy's swimmer's shoulders.... 

Which of these two patterns do you prefer, Simplicity 2815 from 1949, or McCalls 9152 from 1952?



The Simplicity has sat in my Etsy favorites for months.  I don't like the jacket and I loathe dirndl skirts.  The McCall's, on the other hand...I don't know, maybe it's the woman-as-candy-box thing that leaves me cold.  I do love the bolero jacket (View B), and done in lace, it could provide Cathy some necessary coverage.

Regardless of which I choose, I'll need to put boning in the corset, which thanks to Susan Khalje's book, Bridal Couture, shouldn't be too much of a nightmare.  I'm putting Gertie on speed dial. 

Friends, your thoughts.  Are strapless gowns a tired clichĂ© of feminine glamour?  Do they make you think of Merry Widow corsets, road-show productions of Guys and Dolls and all things Jayne Mansfield?

Strapless gowns-- yea or nay?


Sunday, 17 April 2011

Cathy on the town in her taffeta dress!


Beloved readers and Cathy fans, what can I tell you about last night's revelries you haven't already read on "Page Six"?

What a party, what a dress, what a girl!
Cathy, ever the professional, put a brave face on a challenging situation: there were torrential downpours all day yesterday and Cathy's dress was extremely prone to water stains, as you already know.  Nonetheless, she made it work, as she always does.

Below is her latest photoshoot and I do hope you enjoy it.  Does a major film star -- a living one -- make an appearance?   You'll have to watch and find out.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow."



Cathy can't wait to wear her taffeta cocktail dress again in better weather, and has asked me to solicit party invitations on her behalf.

BTW, she was so touched by your concern about her outfit, she'd like to offer all of you an opportunity to wear it.  The logistics sound complicated but we'll figure something out.

So...how do like the dress?

Enjoy!

Saturday, 9 April 2011

The sheer overlay cocktail dress


Does anything scream Fifties glamour more than a sheer lace overlay cocktail dress?  (Yes, Liberace comes close.)

My cousin needs a dress like this and she needs it soon -- big party next Saturday night!  I hightailed it to the fabric store yesterday.  They don't call me "Two-Bucks-a-Yard Pete" for nothing.

VoilĂ !  Five yards of emerald poly taffeta.  Five yards of black nylon lace.







Originally I was thinking something like the Simplicity Designer's Pattern I showed you on Thursday, the black version.



I really don't want to pay $20 for that pattern, though, especially because it's the wrong size and not quite the right style (that detachable collar -- too daytime).  It wouldn't arrive in time anyway.

I'm going to cobble something together working with pieces of patterns I already have.  It's a slip with a lace dress over it -- no boning in the bodice.  There are a lot of photos of this kind of thing online, some more stiffly structured than others.  Often the overlay was attached to the bodice and the darts sewn through both layers together, but not always. 



In the version below, the lace overlay is removable -- it's called a redingote -- and not attached to the dress itself. 


Here's something designer Helen Rose whipped up for Grace Kelly at MGM (for the film High Society, her last).  Not quite the same thing but close.  There was so much of this look out there at the time.

The overlay movie to beat all overlay movies is Paramount's White Christmas.   There are more sheers in that movie than in Martha Stewart's entire Home Collection.


So there you have it, kids: ten yards of frou-frou and a week of hard labor.  This is my kind of fun, what can I say?

Thoughts, recommendations, caveats?

Happy Saturday, everybody!

Thursday, 7 April 2011

Lust and the "Designer" pattern


Readers, I am a man of strong passions.  Not typical passions, perhaps, but strong passions.  And sometimes fleeting passions:  remember the identical cream-colored Samsonite train cases and (still) stinky vintage American Tourister luggage set?



My latest passion is for a certain kind of sewing pattern: the designer pattern.  I'm a little embarrassed about it, though.  I mean every pattern was designed by somebody.  They didn't just materialize out of thin air.   So what's the big deal?

Designer patterns are different.  They tended (and still tend) to be more complicated, dressier outfits, and they cost more (35 cents -- ouch).  They were also often physically larger.

Vogue Paris Originals (the best known line) even came with a special sew-in label!



And they (generally) boasted a famous designer's name: Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Pauline Trigère, Mary Quant, Givenchy!


Sometimes there was some confusion about provenance, as Paco Peralta has shown so hilariously on his blog.  Whose dress is this, anyway?  (Nina, Yves -- GET IN HERE!) 

Kind of makes you wonder...


There were men's versions too, of course.  Perhaps slightly less special, and never requiring gloves.


I'm guessing that in the days when a handful of European cities, like Paris, dictated style, the designer pattern lines were the first to introduce the latest trends, and then, later on, the same or similar trends worked their way down to the regular pattern lines.  Anybody know for sure?

From 1949 to roughly 1952, Simplicity had a special Designer's Pattern line.  Of course they didn't share the actual names of the designers, we just had to take their word for it.  I love these patterns, friends.  It's not that they're so elegant -- they're not.  In fact they're fussy -- nearly every one has a few too many bows, trim, gathers, and other frou-frou -- but they're lovably fussy.


Cathy and I have decided that the early Fifties is her best era, style-wise (she's just not naturally Youth Quake, let's face it), and I've been digging around in search of these Simplicity patterns, which I only recently discovered.  Naturally, I hate to pay big bucks for patterns, but anything with a lace overlay seems worth a little bit more, don't you think?

I was looking at the back of the pattern at the top of today's post, Simplicity 8243, and realized in short order that this is essentially two rather simple garments combined: 1) a slip, and 2) a kimono-sleeve one-piece dress (not unlike the one Cathy just modeled!).  Make the slip in taffeta, do the dress in lace or similar sheer fabric and voilá -- a designer original, no?  (click on pic for larger view)


I mean, it might require drafting a detachable Peter Pan collar, but how hard could that be? 

In closing, friends, I ask you:

Are you a sucker for any pattern that has "designer" in the name (or the name of an actual designer) or are you just as happy to use the knock-off -- of which there were always many.

Do you have the confidence to go the Frankenpattern route, or do you feel you must adhere slavishly to a pattern as originally drafted?

Are you willing to tweak, or even perform major surgery, to achieve a "designer" effect by copying elements you've seen elsewhere?

Are you sitting on a large collection of Simplicity Designer's Patterns in a 36" bust you're eager to part with?

Do tell!


P.S. You can read my latest BurdaStyle piece here.

Monday, 4 April 2011

Cathy models the Deborah Kerr Dress!



Friends, those of you who have ever had to begin again after a setback know that it's rarely easy.  Now that Cathy has paid her debt to society she's back in New York City and trying to create a life for herself.

What does the future hold for our youngish model?  At the very least a growing wardrobe of cocktail ensembles -- a big plus for a Gotham glamour girl.

Cathy and I had such fun modeling Simplicity 4227 yesterday.  It couldn't have been a lovelier day and Cathy looked as fresh as the morning dew.  A little rusty at first, she quickly loosened up and was back to her old self.

I hope you'll give my cousin Cathy a second chance.  She's so eager to put the past behind her.

As always, to see these photos full-size, please click on any image and then, in Picasa, choose "View All" in the upper left hand corner, and "Slideshow." 



If you have advice for Cathy, please leave it below.

Your kind words of support mean a great deal to her.

Enjoy!