Loved the gown, Kate!

We like to stay up to the minute here at MPB, so I must opine on the dress: it's beautiful.  But then again, I'm a sucker for a lace overlay!

Which provides the perfect segue into the book I just received the other day, Susan Khalje's classic, Bridal Couture.


I'd first heard about Susan Khalje and Bridal Couture from Robin, who attended Susan's week-long Couture Sewing School in March.  Kind Robin even offered to lend me her copy of Bridal Couture, but friends, I like to know I can take a book into the bathtub with me and not worry.  Not that I would ever take my copy into the tub, given that I paid about three times the original price (the book is sadly out of print though a CD copy is available on Susan's website). Since used print copies can go for well over $100 these days, I'm OK with the $79 I paid (a birthday present to myself).  Still, for me, that's a sewing machine. 

I'm going to be honest here: when I opened my mailbox to find the book folded inside and realized this was a softcover book, and not a particularly thick one at that, my heart sank.  Then I opened the book.  Friends, I love Bridal Couture -- and I'm not even getting married any time soon! 







Bridal Couture is so clearly written, so well organized, so beautifully illustrated -- it's a must for anyone interested in sewing evening wear, and not just wedding gowns, though that's obviously its primary focus.

Would I have preferred if it had been a how-to guide to recreating Rita Hayworth's wardrobe from You Were Never Lovelier?  Absolutely!  But I don't think the techniques are dramatically different.

It pains me when something so worthwhile is currently so expensive, though again, a CD copy can be had for much less.  I've posted more pics from Bridal Couture here and am even thinking of attending Susan's next workshop in Baltimore in the fall, though I'm not sure what I'd make.  Something to think about...

I have more great news, patient readers -- my Featherweight is working at last!



You may recall that after I replaced the missing loop guard screw, Rain discovered that the original hook had tiny burrs that were snagging the thread, burrs he lacked the tools to remove.  Fortunately I was able to find a full hook assembly for sale on eBay for what seemed like a reasonable amount ($38 with shipping) given the original cost of the machine (about $225 with shipping).  This meant the whole loop guard screw replacement drama was totally unnecessary, of course, but that's life.

In addition to my original damaged hook, Rain had taken my bobbin case and bobbin back home with him to test and clean, so to make the machine work I needed to pick these up and it didn't seem fair to make Rain come to my place yet again.  I also wanted Rain to install the hook assembly.

Now I know you're curious -- I was -- so I will share that Rain lives in a huge, semi-industrial space (whose location I cannot reveal) bursting with vintage Singer sewing machines in various stages of restoration -- mainly 221's (Featherweights), 201's, and assorted 15 models.  There must have been five different workstations set up for him to work on his machines.  I even got to revisit my 15-90, which Rain has already converted to a hand crank. This guy is something else.

Anyway, the Featherweight now stitches beautifully; I still have to polish her up a bit.





Like Bridal Couture, this is another item that consistently receives raves so effusive, it almost made me not want to like it.  But I do, and I totally get why so many people collect Featherweights with a passion.

Finally, readers, even more good news!

After I-don't-even-remember-how-many months, I finally emptied the cat litter out of my stinky vintage American Tourister luggage set (not including the cosmetic case, which still needs help) and vacuumed the insides.



I let them air out on the balcony for a few more days and I can say that 90% of the smell is gone.  I made lavender sachets to tuck inside and am now using the luggage to store fabric as well as some of Cathy's endless accessories. 





Don't you love a happy ending?

Speaking of Cathy, I should also tell you that my poor cousin was unable to attend the show and party last night (for which I originally was going to make her another taffeta cocktail dress) and I went in her place.  Cathy had been looking forward to it and was going to wear her Twenties flapper dress, but pooped out at the last minute.  It's just as well: we could take the subway (Cathy insists on cabs) and save ourselves some cash.

Friends, that's it!  Believe me when I tell you that the only royal wedding I care about is the MGM one with Fred Astaire and Jane Powell (and even that's a bit of a yawn), but you have to admit, a lace overlay gown is tops.

I'd love to get your initial impressions.  How do you think it compares to this?

Maybe it's the times but, lovely as it is, Kate's dress is rather sober-looking in comparison to Diana's.   Thoughts?

Happy Friday, everybody!

For Want of a Screw...

Readers, believe me when I tell you that yesterday at this time I had never heard of a loop guard, let alone a loop guard screw.  But life is about learning, friends, and if we're open to it, knowledge will come our way, no matter how arcane and (arguably) trivial.

Today's post will have primarily wonk appeal so, apologies.   I should state immediately that the screw pictured above is not Singer Featherweight part #200145, the aforementioned loop guard screw (I'm sure some of you knew that already).  But I couldn't find a good picture of #200145.  Sometimes you need Troy Donahue but you have to settle for Tab Hunter -- or is it the other way around?

Long story short: I worked a bit on my Featherweight yesterday.  Quick recap: I bought this machine on eBay and paid what I would consider a low-end price, though sadly not bargain basement.  I've seen them at the flea market for somewhat less and considerably more.  It didn't come with the accessory box but I did get an intact case, the original manual, and a nice vintage buttonholer with seven templates.





My last piece for BurdaStyle was all about how to buy a vintage sewing machine and I didn't follow my own advice.  The eBay seller wrote "the light works and the machine sews."  Well the light does work and the machine does sew -- sort of.  I could have asked for a stitch sample but it was clear that the seller knew very little about the machine and I hoped the vagueness of the description would depress the bidding, which it did.  It's a crap shoot as they say and I gave the seller positive feedback regardless.  (BTW, the seller thought the machine was from 1934; it's from 1951 based on the serial number and indeed -- I just noticed this five minutes ago -- it has the Singer Centennial badge!)

The motor sounds great, and after significant oiling everything now runs smoothly and powerfully, but after a few stitches the thread jams.  So yesterday I read online about Featherweight thread jams -- and read and read and read.  The amount of information out there about this little machine is astounding!

Remember I mentioned needing to buy a small screwdriver to tighten the hook gib screw with?  Well I did, and though I tightened it, the thread still jammed (I'd already checked the needle, thread, etc.).

One site suggested I remove and clean under the bobbin case base, pictured below, which I then did.  (This is the piece that the bobbin case fits into.)  It's all part of the larger hook assembly.  Am I losing you?



With bobbin case base removed:
 

I then noticed that there was what looked like a screw hole visible as well as a loose plate beneath it on the same shaft.  This loose plate I eventually identified as the loop guard.  And wouldn't you know: the loop guard is supposed to be screwed on to the hook assembly.  Can you see where it looks like there's a screw missing on the right?  That's because there is a screw missing.  (It's the smaller of the two holes.)

Here's the side view:
 

Wrapped around the shaft between the loop guard and the rest of the hook assembly were layers and layers of thread -- old, old thread, my friends.

First I pulled out a few strands of filament as fine as doll hair (which it could be for all I know).



Half an hour later I had removed all this:



Anyway, miracle or miracles, many websites sell this loop guard screw for just a few dollars and I ordered one.  It should arrive next week sometime and then we'll take it from there!

As I was figuring all this out yesterday I kept sending emails to Rain with headings like "My Featherweight issue," "Last email, promise" and "REALLY the last email!"  Obviously a man of few words, his (sole) response was "Sounds like you solved the problem, yeah?"  Friends, is that what you think I wanted to hear?  He's the sewing machine repair specialist!  This is the problem with the internet, I think.  With a little effort you can solve just about any technical problem yourself; I hate that.

Here's a bonus pic of the entire hook assembly for you Featherweight fetishists.  Pretty hot, huh?



Lest you think I spent the entire day marinating in sewing machine oil, I actually got some sewing done, though not as much as I'd hoped to.

I started on the jacket and readers, it's going to be so cute, though obviously not something you'd wear over a tee shirt.



I also finished the kimono sleeves on the bodice with bias I cut myself.









Such a nice finish.  I'll slip stitch those down later on.

Friends, we're nearly out of time.  Thank you for all your wonderful Featherweight-related tips yesterday.  The stinky, sneeze-inducing carrying case is on the balcony and I'm not entirely sure what to do with it.  In a city apartment there's really no place to store moldy things and I already have all that old luggage smelling up the bedroom.  I will probably never even use that case and I don't really see myself stripping it down, fumigating it, potpourri-ing it or anything of that ilk.  Then again, yesterday I'd never heard of a loop guard screw.

If I had to do over I'd pay less for a machine without a case (most of the old ones have the stink issue, apparently) and get one of those nice new tote bags for it.  Live and learn!

TOKIBAT!

Have a great day, everybody!

P.S. - You can read my latest BurdaStyle piece here; comments are always welcome!

Photo Album 2...and the Featherweight arrives!

More pics from the magical mystery photo album -- and so much more, my friends.  But first...

Who wants a Tom Collins?



Belly up to the (home) bar, boys!



Just three more drinks till dinner, hon.



Ray-Bans, madras shorts, chinos...







Grammy seeks a quick exit.



Don't eat the fruit, Bunny...



Happy Birthday, Chip!



Lots more fun pics of the life I'll never have but at least someone did here.

In other news...the Featherweight arrived yesterday!





Carrying case intact though a little beat up, as expected.  The inside is a bit moldy looking (and smelling).



And there she is.





Not for the first time with a vintage machine, I turn her on, she runs and then immediately seizes up.



I take off her hand wheel and find decrepit thread wound around the shaft.



Under the throat plate, ancient mystery lint.





I'm not entirely sure I understand how to thread her, friends, though I DO have the manual.  I did get her to sew a bit (with a fresh needle)



But then the top thread would get tangled up below.  Here one possible cause:





The hook is loose.  Do you see how it comes off that little protruding doohickey on the left?  I don't have the correct screwdriver for this so I'll have to pick one up later today if possible.

The good: her motor sounds fantastic -- strong and quiet -- and when I run her with no thread she's smooth as can be.   I'll need to tighten up that hook (I might disassemble the shuttle race first)  and take it from there.

This is the first time I've bought a used sewing machine and not been able to sew with her right off the bat -- disappointing, but I suppose it builds character.  The seller said she sews and that's factually true but there's no way, judging from the condition she arrived in, that she was fully tested.  They probably turned the light on, revved the motor, and called it a day.  

I'm glad to have her, though, and eager to get her sewing.  Now about the smell...  (Haven't we been down this road before?)

Happy Wednesday, everybody!  Any Featherweight fans out there?

What are you having?