MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- Down Under's Own DON!

Friends, I never know what to make of Australians.  They look like you and me -- well, OK, they're sexier -- and I can usually understand what they're saying, but they seem to exist in a parallel universe.  It has something to do with being on the wrong side of the planet I think.  They're....different.
Now, I am considered by many to be the Doris Day of sewing bloggers: wholesome and sunny with a latent streak of hysteria.  But there are darker forces lurking in the blogosphere, readers, and some of them make their own jeans.  Meet Don Pezzano!

If you don't already know Australian enfant terrible Don from his popular blog, Urbandon, you're in for a treat -- and some Jeans Sew-Along inspiration!  Don is an awesomely creative sewist (and so much more) who will try anything.

Have a look:

If Thursday's interview with sweet Taylor made your teeth ache, I invite you to taste the bitter pungency of Don Pezzano.

Take it away, Don!

*****

PL: Don, how long have you been sewing pants/jeans? 

DP: What's the time now?  (LOL)  Seriously, I have only made a handful of pants and only just finished my second pair of jeans. But that second pair fit me like a dream, have all the details I like and are made to last.

PL: How do you define your style and where do you find your inspiration?

DP: Deconstructed Gothic. Slouchy, asymmetrical with a strict color pallet of black, gunmetal and blue. I get a lot of inspiration from movies that have worked hard on costume: The Fifth Element, 3:10 To Yuma and The Brothers Bloom being good examples. I also love turn-of-the-century abstract art like Georges Braque and Gothic Revival architecture.

PL:  Do you draft your own pattern when you sew jeans, or do you use a commercial pattern?  If so, which one?

DP: My first jeans I used the Burda 3406 pattern, but the fit was all wrong. Although there is an 80's revival going on, it's not the look I am after. I like a straight leg with a low rise.  Using my tailored pants block as a base, I drafted my own. Before I even started I knew that they were going to fit me perfectly. There were so many details that were different or extra compared to a commercial pattern, that it was just practical to start from scratch. I find half the fun of sewing is drafting patterns. 

PL: What's the hardest part about sewing jeans, in your opinion?   

DP: Making the fronts sit correctly. Jeans or pants are going to look daggy if they don't sit right at the front.  The fly shouldn't be bulky or bulging, and for guy's jeans make sure there is ample room in the crotch -- unless you want that 70's look!

PL: Where do you find your jeans supplies -- denim, rivets, jeans buttons, etc?

DP: Here in Sydney there is The Remnant Warehouse and they have everything. The average chain store just isn't going to have the right supplies.  Go to a quality fabric retailer.   Flimsy, lightweight denim or regular buttons really won't cut it. I bought a variety of of rivets on eBay to try out, but the quality seems variable. Buying fabric online is tough because you really don't know what you are going to get. 

PL: Anything else you want to add about sewing/designing jeans?

DP: Good denim jeans should last many years. If you consider that fact with every step you take, with every seam you sew and every button you put on, you will create an amazing pair of jeans!  Skimp on denim or details and you will get an average pair of jeans. 

Look at your favorite jeans (mine are G-Star). What makes them so special?  The fit?  The denim? The details?  Strive to replicate them.

Zips can be a curse. Go with a button fly. Not only will buttons last longer and look better, they are easier to put in.   Sew slowly.Sewing through 3-4 layers of denim should be done slowly.  My first pair of jeans I snapped two needles. My second pair I didn't snap one because I took it slowly.

PL: Thanks for the great insights, Don!

DP: Thanks, Peter! 

*****

Friends, if you haven't already checked out Don's BurdaStyle studio, please do.  Don is also a steampunk-inspired jewelry maker (this has nothing to do with Punky Brewster, I have learned) and his work -- jewelry, assemblage art, and minimalist handbags -- is available in his Etsy Store.   Don ships internationally too!

What do think, guys -- awesome or what?!!

Happy Saturday, everybody; see you on Monday!

MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- EMERGENCY UPSTART, I MEAN UPDATE

Friends, with just four days to go before the start of the MPB Jeans Sew-Along, I wanted to answer some basic questions about jeans and jeans supplies.

Actually, I wanted someone to answer my questions and so I decided to go straight to that jeans-sewing wunderkind, Taylor Hackbarth of Taylor Tailor...or is it Tailor Taylor -- I can never remember.

I stumbled upon Tennessean Taylor's blog months ago while searching for a photo of the late Dame Elizabeth, added him to my blog list impulsively, and now can't figure out how to get him off.  No worries, Taylor is a marvelous source of jeans-related information -- the kind of thing I could have figured out, but...well...no point reinventing the wheel!

I invited Taylor to share some of his expertise here at MPB at the very moment -- talk about synchronicity! -- Taylor was in the process of creating...  Friends, you'll have to read the interview to find out, but simply put: If you're looking for a great one-stop source for high-quality, basic jeans supplies, Taylor's your man!

I think you'll agree that Taylor is a true connoisseur.  Young, smart, with an obsessive eye for detail and a passion for authenticity, Taylor is easy to resent admire.  I do.

Take it away, Taylor!

(BTW, all photos below are Taylor's projects)

 *****

PL: Taylor, how did you get interested in sewing and more specifically, sewing denim jeans?

TH: One day I just decided that I wanted to learn a new skill, something useful that was completely new to me and out of my comfort zone. I needed a challenge and wanted to do something constructive with my free time.

I have always had a DIY approach to a lot of things and an interest in menswear, but hadn’t put the two together before. Also, I am pretty picky when it comes to my clothes, but at the same time, didn’t want to spend (or have) the money to get the quality I wanted. Learning to make my own seemed like the perfect solution.

I had a bit of a head start, as my wife has always had (and knew how to use!) a sewing machine. This made it easy for me to dive right in. Initially I thought I would make a wool suit as my first project. Keep in mind, I didn’t even know what a bobbin was at this point!  My wife gently reminded me that I wasn't even remotely ready for this and handed me a pattern for a simple apron. The apron didn’t take me long, and I was on to shirts and pants and learning how to draft my own patterns in no time.

I never even thought twice about the denim I was wearing until I saw this video.   Jesse and Adam of Put This On do amazing work. While the video doesn’t have much to do with DIY jeans, it inspired me to started reading more about denim and its history. I was hooked.

Since I spend most of my waking hours in denim, I figured, why shouldn’t the jeans I am wearing be absolutely perfect? And since I couldn’t exactly justify dropping $300+ on a pair of jeans, why couldn’t I make myself a custom pair? And so I did. 

PL: Taylor, what are a few of the elements necessary for great jeans (as opposed to mediocre jeans) in your opinion?

TH: This may seem obvious, but I think one of the most important elements is fit. I am still perfecting my pattern and probably always will be. Finding and modifying a pattern so that it fits your body the way you want it to is not easy, but the result is well worth the effort. Also, and again probably obvious, is choosing quality materials, from the fabric to the thread. The easiest thing that you can do to make your jeans look more professional is to use a heavy top-stitching thread anywhere you are sewing on the right side of the fabric.

I also like to flat-fell my in-seams, yokes, and center back/crotch seam. This isn't absolutely necessary, and don't get me wrong, I love my serger, but I think the felled seams are a nice detail if you want to go from mediocre to a more professional-looking jean.

Lastly, I like really simple, classic looking jeans. My personal preference is to stick with the classic five pocket, straight leg jean. I don’t really include much decorative stitching, or any extra pockets. Keep it simple, with a great attention to detail (it helps to be a perfectionist), and you’ll be fine.

PL: Isn't denim denim (i.e, what the different between one and another)?

TH: I am by no means a textile expert, but I suppose that from a purely functional standpoint, a lot of denim is the same. The main differences, of course, are the color and the material, and a lot of that is preference; for example, whether or not there is any stretch built into the fabric by using an elastic fiber. I prefer 100% cotton denim for men's jeans and really love the selvedge denim made in the US; but that’s just the purist in me. Others may prefer a lighter wash or a fabric with a bit of stretch in it.

While all fabric has a selvedge (finished edge), with denim the term has a special meaning. Selvedge, or "selvage" denim is woven on old-fashioned, narrow looms which give the denim a great-looking finished edge. Jeans made with this denim will try to preserve this edge, and you can often see it by turning up the cuff. It’s very distinctive in this way. Also, some say the weave is a little tighter than denim woven on more modern looms since the crosswise weft yarn is one continuous piece.

Again, I'm not an expert here, but I use this denim whenever I make jeans; I see it as the cream of the crop when it comes to denim. It's a matter of what you like. I prefer the dark, raw, stiff, unwashed stuff. It may not be the most comfortable denim when you first put it on, but I love it, and I love how over time it molds to your body and the colors fade in a way that is uniquely you.

PL: Where is the best denim made?

TH: Some of the best denim is made right here in the United States. Cone Mills in North Carolina is one of the few denim mills left in the US. While I don't have much experience with denim made elsewhere, I hear that Japanese denim is really nice.  A lot of high end boutique jeans companies use Japanese selvedge denim. I'd love to make a pair of jeans with it some day.

PL: What do you think of button fly vs. zipper fly (is one more authentic than another)?

TH: I prefer a button fly over a zipper fly in part because I think they are more authentic than zippers. Historically speaking, jeans came with button flies.

I have also had zippers that get stuck and it can be difficult to get them working again, which isn't a problem with button flies. Even though there is a protective facing with a zipper, as a matter of principle, I've decided that zipper teeth do not belong anywhere near that region of my body (he he).

That being said, zippers are probably more efficient and easy to use. If the rise on your jeans is very low, you might not have room to space out the buttons for a button fly, so it would be a good idea to use a zipper instead. I’ll probably be using a zipper on the jeans I make for my wife, for example.

PL: Where can I find suitable topstitching thread, jeans buttons, and rivets (and do you need special tools to attach rivets)?

TH: I have spent a lot of time scouring the earth for the best topstitching thread, jeans buttons, rivets, and denim. It was impossible to find everything I needed in one place, let alone in small enough quantities that were practical for making one or two pairs of jeans.

My endless searching got me thinking... there are probably other frustrated jean makers out there, and why couldn’t there be a “one stop shop” for jean-making supplies? I’m actually starting such a website, still in its early stages though functional, and you can see the initial offerings on at Taylor Tailor Supply Shop.

I hope that this little shop will fill a need, and I plan to continue adding products and more resources in the future. In the next week or so I will be adding more styles of denim, plus rivets, buttons, and different colors of thread.  It’ll also be moving to it’s own home once my web designer (ie: my wife) has time to design it.

For now, everything can be purchased through PayPal buttons on my blog. If any one has any questions about the products or would like samples, feel free to get in touch with me here.

Re: rivets -there are special bench presses and dies available for commercial setups, and rivets to go along with them, but if you buy the right kind of rivets, all you really need is a hammer and a hard, stable surface to pound on. They are very easy to install and I hope to eventually put up a useful tutorial with pictures and instructions.

You basically mark the spot you want the rivet, poke a hole, insert the rivet on the wrong side of the fabric, and pound the "nail" part of the rivet into the cap or burr. The burr is what you see on the right side of the fabric, and the rivet is actually the "nail" looking thing that is inserted from the wrong side of the fabric.

PL: How difficult is it to draft your own jeans pattern?  Can you use pieces of a commercial pattern to facilitate things?

TH: I used a great book to help me draft my own jeans pattern, called The Practical Guide To Pattern Drafting for Fashion Designers: Menswear.  I’d say it was more time consuming than anything.

Taking accurate measurements from your body (a two-person job) and taking your time during the drafting process helps a lot. Measure, re-measure, and measure again! If you already have a pattern that fits you reasonably well, you could modify this rather than starting from scratch. Since the only commercial pattern I had when I made my jeans didn't fit me, and I didn't really like the overall shape and fit of the pattern, I elected to start from scratch.

The other thing to consider is using a store bought pair of jeans to help draft your pattern. If you have a pair of jeans that fit you really well, you could use them as a basis for a pattern and then make any necessary modifications. 

PL: Taylor, thanks so much for sharing what you know with us today!

TH: I am thrilled to contribute!

****

Readers, isn't Taylor the best?  If you have any additional questions for Taylor please ask below and perhaps he (or I) can answer them for you.  (I'll be picking his brains in the weeks ahead for sure...little does he know.)

Thanks again, Taylor!

 P.S.  If you haven't already, don't forget to join the Jeans Sew-Along group on Flickr.

Can't wait to get started!

Thinking about JEANS... plus contest winner!

Can it be?   Are we really only four weeks from the beginning of the MPB Jeans Sew-Along on Monday, May 2?  Somebody check and make sure I'm counting correctly!

Reminder: I'll be making my jeans from Kwik Sew 3504, a multi-sized, in-print men's jeans pattern.  You can sew whatever jeans pattern you wish and follow along.



You can purchase Kwik Sew 3504 through the Minneapolis-based Etsy store Sewtropolis and domestic shipping is FREE.  You'll get the pattern for just $11.99.  They'll also ship abroad of course.

Here's the link http://www.etsy.com/listing/69609861/kwik-sew-3504-mens-jeans

Now is the time to start thinking about fabric.  Jeans don't have to be denim: you can sew corduroy, twill, hey, why not polyester shantung?  But please make sure you give yourself time if you're ordering online.

To make Kwik Sew 3504 in a Small,  I'll need roughly two yards of denim (a little more, a little less depending on the width of the bolt), a 7" zipper, one jeans button, and -- this is optional -- jeans rivets.

Topstitching thread is recommended -- I like to mix colors -- along with a jeans needle (I'll be using a size 18).  In the coming weeks I'll be talking about thread tension and sewing through multiple layers of thick fabrics like denim.  How well does your machine do this?  You might want to give it try.

Before I forget -- our contest winner:

The winner of the vintage Seventies "Valerie Bertinelli" pattern is that "itchy-fingered" super-mom and sewing sensation...

Tanit-Isis!

 Luv huh!

Tanit-Isis, please email me your address (peterlappinnyc at gmail dot com) and I'll get this off to you ASAP.  Can't wait to see the finished dress -- no pressure -- and congratulations!

And now back to jeans.



Have you joined the Jeans Sew-Along Flickr group yet?  If you haven't, please shoot me an email and I'll send you an invite.  Or if you're already a member of Flickr, send me a request.  The Flickr group is open for all to see but only members can post photos and leave comments. 

Today is s a great time to ask questions here, if you have any.

Here's one for you guys:

What are your favorite denim sources?  We've all heard of Fabric.com.  Are there any other sites you recommend that have good prices, good selection, and fast shipping?

How about topstitching thread and rivets?  (What color topstitching thread do you like to use?)

Your expertise -- and I know you many of you have it -- is greatly appreciated. 

Hope you'll join the Jeans Sew-Along -- TWILL be lots of fun, he he. 

Jump in!

MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- UPDATE!

 

Good morning, jeans lovers and others, and welcome once again to my bagel shop.  I bring great news, piping hot coffee, and all the Sixties song hits from your youth -- or at least mine.

Our Jeans Sew-Along is scheduled to begin on Monday, May 2, 2011, which means we're just about six weeks away.
I'll be sewing Kwik Sew 3504, an in-print, multi-sized men's jeans pattern and I can't wait to get started on it (Did I mention I have about 8 yards of white denim in my stash?). 

If you'd like to sew Kwik Sew 3504 with me, I have a great deal for you:

Purchase this pattern through the Minneapolis-based Etsy Store Sewtropolis and domestic shipping is FREE!  (Shipping can be as high as $5.95 elsewhere.)  You'll get the pattern for just $11.99

Here's the link http://www.etsy.com/listing/69609861/kwik-sew-3504-mens-jeans

Patty at Sewtropolis tells me they have plenty in stock right now but don't tarry, especially those who need to have the pattern sent overseas. 

I've already received mine in the mail and it looks super.  (Thanks, Patty, for helping to set this up!)



Just to reiterate: you can sew whichever men's or women's jeans pattern you wish, or draft your own.  I'll be working from the Kwik Sew instructions and you can follow along.

I've just launched our Jeans Sew-Along Flickr site, which will function exactly like the Men's Shirt Sew-Along group -- a great place to post your photos, questions, helpful links, and other comments.  If you're already a member of Flickr, you can join directly through the site, or simply send me an email request (peterlappinnyc at gmail dot com) and I'll send you a Flickr invite.  (The group is open to anyone to view but only members can post photos and comments.)

In the coming weeks, I'll be posting a lot of info about denim, but if you have some online or brick-and-mortar sources you'd like to recommend here today, please do!

Six weeks may seem like a long time, but as you know, time flies!  Order your pattern, join the Flickr group and spread the word.

In closing, friends, what's been your experience with sewing jeans?  Love, hate, or something in between?  What's a good price for denim these days?  Stretch or non-stretch -- which do you prefer?

Jump in!

MPB Jeans Sew-Along -- Save the date!

Guys, it's official: the MPB Jeans Sew-Along is scheduled to begin Monday, May 2, 2011.  It's for both men and women and I hope you'll participate.

I know for some of you May seems too far away to even think about, for others too soon, but I'm counting on there being enough Goldilocks for whom this sounds just right.  You?

Part of the challenge for the men is finding an in-print jeans pattern.  My staff informs me that there is one -- yes, one in-print men's jeans pattern, Kwik Sew 3504.   Is this correct?

Kwik Sew 3504 is currently for sale at Fabric.com where, when last I checked, they had 4 in stock.  They've told me they will reorder when they're down to 2, and that it takes 3-4 weeks for them to receive another shipment.

Friends, does that seem like a long time in these days of overnight delivery and online downloads?

The jeans pattern I've used most recently, no longer in print, is Kwik Sew 2123 which, admittedly, has a somewhat Eighties look to it. 



I've also used Simplicity 5048, a vintage pattern from 1972 that includes a Western shirt and vest.  While it does show up often on sites like Etsy, and eBay, I don't think it's practical for a group sew-along to use a 40-year-old pattern.  It's also not multi-sized, nor does it include back pockets.



Believe me that the difference between a Seventies jeans pattern, an Eighties jeans pattern, and a 2011 jeans pattern is so slight, and the adjustments needed so minor, that I'm tempted to just say go out and get whatever jeans pattern you can find.

If you want to, you can pick up Kwik Sew 3504 from Fabric.com now.  That might force them to re-stock before May.  If you can find it elsewhere, that's fine too.

As for the ladies, as usual you have many more pattern options.  I'd love to know what your favorite jeans pattern is and what makes it so special to you.  I've heard good things about Canadian pattern company Jalie.  Ever made their jeans?

I know a few of us have experience drafting our own jeans.  For men, who generally have fewer curves below the waist, this is not particularly difficult, though it helps to have a commercial pattern on hand just for comparison. 

If you have any questions or comments about the Sew-Along, please ask.  We'll do it the same way as the Men's Shirt Sew-Along, with a separate Flickr group for posting and group discussion.

I'm also excited to announce that I have a piece up about sewing menswear on the BurdaStyle site, so if you'd like to take a look and/or leave a comment, that would be great.

Also, if you haven't thrown your hat in for the groovy vintage Seventies pattern I'm giving away, you still have till midnight tonight.

I'll be talking more about the Jeans Sew-Along in the weeks ahead, naturally.  I'm excited!

Any mens and/or womens jeans pattern recommendations out there? 

Have a great day, everybody!

NOTE: Blogger does not seem to be accepting live links at this time.  If you'd like to leave a link in your comment that we can cut and paste, please do.

Time for another MPB Sew-Along!

Friends, I've been thinking: now that our Men's Shirt Sew-Along is coming to a close, what might we sew together next?

I'd like it to be something practical...

But sexy.

Something I have experience sewing...



And that can work in multiple fabrics (given the non-conformist bent of my readers).



And that's suitable for both men and women.

 Something that can be worn loose...

 Or snug.

Multiple pockets and topstitching - A+!



Finally, it has to be something we can find an in-print pattern for.

Can you think of anything that fits these criteria?

Friends, please take some time this week and think about what our next MPB Sew-Along should be.  We wouldn't start till Spring (which is only three weeks away), and certainly not for another month or even two.  I think most of you need that much time to finish your shirts.

Nothing is set in stone of course, so if there is something please let me know.  Nothing with tulle, please!

Are you in?

Happy Tuesday, everybody!

Mens Leopard Print Pants for Christmas!

THANK YOU, SANTA!

OK, how cool are these pants?  I can't wait to wear them to Paris Fashion Week!  A Hollywood Premier!  Drinks in London with Madonna!  Fabric shopping.

I think they more than live up to their inspiration, don't you?

Whoops, wrong photo!

 

Friends, I have learned that Star of Tomorow Garrett Hedlund's leopard print pants are by none other than Givenchy for Spring/Summer 2011!  (I knew there was something vaguely Audrey Hepburn-ish about them.)  I am so on trend.

The resemblance is uncanny -- to the pants, I mean.  I'll have more photos of them next week.



Here are a few construction shots.  They weren't hard to put together despite being cotton velvet.  I used my Singer 15-90 treadle for the topstitching and, since my 15-91 needs to be rewired, my Pfaff 139 for everything else.

Do you believe it: me on a zigzagger!


 





And speaking of sewing machines, you're not going to believe this, but yesterday I sold my seventh sewing machine.  Yes, my Elna Grasshopper now belongs to Daniel, the hippest-looking hipster out of Bushwick, Brooklyn, right down to beard and jeggings.  A perfect match of man and machine. 



Readers, I have no more vintage sewing machines to sell, well, if you leave out my cursed Huskystar serger, and leave out is probably what I should do with it -- in the snow.

So you're probably wondering what sewing machines I have left.  OK: I have my Singer 15-91 which needs rewiring, my Singer 15-90 which is now my treadle, my Singer 66, which used to be my treadle, but now has the motor from the 15-90 attached to it.  I even found a way to attach the lamp -- clever, huh?





Then I have my Pfaff 139 which until the leopard print pants project I hadn't sewed on in a long time.  She's strong and speedy.



And finally, my beat up Viking 3240.  I use her primarily to wind bobbins and insert invisible zippers.



That's it!  Five sewing machines and my Brother 1034D serger.  When I downsize I really downsize.

Friends, that's all for today.  I hope those who celebrate it are enjoying a very Merry Christmas.  I leave you with a little Deanna Durbin, who captures the Yuletide spirit in uber-glamorous close up as she sings Silent Night into a telephone receiver.  It's good to be Queen of the Studio!

Cheers, everybody and see you on Monday.