Showing posts with label sewing and culture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sewing and culture. Show all posts

Sunday, 10 April 2011

Sewing, Growing, and Flowing: The 8 Benefits of Making It Yourself


Readers, I always welcome the opportunity to take a break from actual sewing...to talk about sewing.  I find myself in a contemplative mood today and thought I'd reflect a bit on what sewing has given me, and perhaps you too.

Here, then, are my 8 Benefits of Making It Yourself:

1. Sewing is creative.  When you decide to sew yourself something instead of going to a store and buying what somebody else has designed, manufactured, and marketed, you're tapping into your own ingenuity and inventiveness.  Like so many of our abilities, once you tap into them, you realize how much more you're capable of than you ever thought possible.  Creativity begets creativity: you've sewn your own shirt, now let's see if you can sew your own vintage Fifties lace overlay cocktail dress (to make one example...).

2.  Sewing is educational.  There is so much to know about sewing and the learning never stops.  Fabrics, notions, techniques, fit -- the list is endless.  No matter what level sewer you are, there's always a new challenge ahead.  What can be more thrilling than that?


3. Sewing is self-actualizing.  I define self-actualization as becoming the person you really are, being true to yourself, and feeling authentic.  Doing something we love solely because we love it is self-affirming. You know you're on the right path when you're doing something that brings you joy.

4. Sewing gets you into your "flow."  Mihály Csíkszentmihályi, a Hungarian psychologist and author of the classic work Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience, argued that people are happiest when they are completely immersed in an activity that requires their full attention and skill.  (More about Csíkszentmihályi -- including the pronunciation of his name! -- here.)  Because sewing requires our full concentration, it puts us into our flow state, where we feel not only most alive, but also most relaxed, as our other concerns fade into the background.



5. Sewing is part of a craft tradition.  A century or two ago, most people were able to make most everything they needed.  The majority lived in the countryside and grew their own food.  Many built -- or participated in building -- their own home and furnishings.  Commercial industry as we think of it today was next to non-existent.  You might barter services with another, but basically you had to take care of your own needs.  Self-sufficiency is profoundly satisfying.  Today most of us no longer need to grow our own food or make our own clothes, and as a result we lack the knowledge -- passed down generation to generation -- to do so.  Learning how to sew reconnects us with these traditions.  And if you can do it with your own energy (by treadling or using a hand crank machine) you're even more self-sufficient!

6. Sewing is fantasy.  In the same way that it's no more difficult to paint a picture of a palace than a hovel, an extra foot of fabric can turn a house dress into an evening gown.  Sewing is a vehicle to explore not only who we are and what image we want to project into the world, but also who we like to pretend to be.  Children are able to access this ability with complete lack of self-consciousness: a blanket thrown over a table becomes a fort, an old sheet, a cape.  How many adults are still attuned to this capacity to dream and play?



7. Sewing is a window into history, sociology, and economics.  Sewing for ourselves challenges us to think about the role making clothes has had throughout history.  Sewing machines helped to emancipate women as it gave them a commercially marketable skill.  As sewing became an industry, sewers organized themselves into unions so that those in the textile trade could make a living wage and support their families.  Today, because of globalization and concentration of corporate power, we're moving in the opposite direction.  Sewing taps into a lot of academic disciplines and if we're inclined to study it, we can learn a lot about the world we inhabit.


8. Sewing is social.  Sewing used to be something most people did in isolation.  Unlike an activity like knitting, it's hard to sew in a group -- though obviously not impossible.  It requires sufficient space, organization (all those notions!), and portable machines (unless machines are provided).  But thanks to the Internet, we can connect with an unlimited number of people all over the world who share our passion.  One of the most exciting benefits of Male Pattern Boldness has been connecting (virtually and sometimes even in person) with readers from different cultures and traditions and learning their different perspectives on everything from fashion to sewing machine maintenance.



BONUS BENEFIT!!!

9. Sewing builds self-confidence.  This relates to many of the points already discussed.   When we are able to pursue something we love, we validate the importance of our own passion.   The same goes for being able to do something to take care of our own -- and/or our family's -- needs.  Feeling less dependent on the mall, on artificial trends, and cheap labor -- feeds into our self-confidence too.

Related to this is body confidence. When you learn how to fit yourself, when you become more intimately aware of your body and how to dress it in a flattering way, you feel more confident about the way you look.  What could be more dispiriting than feeling like you're the wrong size for the ready-to-wear clothing available to you, that somehow you are at fault?

 

Friends, this is what I've gained through sewing.  What have you gained?

I'd love to hear from you!

Wednesday, 16 March 2011

Whither the Secretary?


Friends, is anybody a secretary anymore?

In these days of internet, iPhones, Blackberries, etc., is there really any need for somebody to answer phones, take a letter, or make photocopies?

I don't know anybody who works as a secretary today, and the people I know who work in Corporate America tell me they're even firing the front office receptionists.  If your job description includes making coffee and taking dictation, good luck!

It seems the secretary has been relegated to the "naughty" Halloween costume aisle, alongside the "naughty" nurse and French maid.  Camp.

Like the American male, union, blue collar worker, the "girl secretary" was more than just an employee -- she was part of Twentieth-Century American culture.  She embodied one of the primary paths to women's economic and social emancipation.

There were secretary magazines, secretary dresses, secretary fiction, and of course, secretary movies!





Ginger Rogers won an Academy Award in 1940 for her portrayal of secretary Kitty Foyle in a moving morality tale about the temptations to which working women were vulnerable.  (BTW, he won't leave his wife -- ever.)


Joan Crawford played an ambitious secretary in Grand Hotel, one of her most famous roles, repeated by Lana Turner in Week-end at the Waldorf.


Remember Edie Adams as Fred MacMurray's world-weary secretary in The Apartment?  Marvelous and heart-breaking!  (And he still won't leave his wife.)


The stereotype of secretary as temptress and potential home-wrecker was everywhere in vintage Hollywood movies and TV.  How many movies and sitcom episodes revolved around the husband hires beautiful new secretary and wife pitches a fit story?  Too many to count!

The no-nonsense, smarter-than-the-boss secretary was another beloved icon -- Eve Arden made an entire career out of playing these types of women.


On TV there was Ann Sothern...


...and Doris Day -- who in movies played career women with big jobs (remember Pillow Talk and Lover Come Back?), but on the small screen took a demotion.


And of course, Mary Tyler Moore.  Mary eventually rose through the ranks to become Executive Producer, but she still had to make the coffee.


Secretary styles influenced women's wear for decades -- shirtwaists and modest frocks meant for the working woman.  Many were actually called secretary dresses on the pattern.


Ambitious secretaries might read Today's Secretary magazine, where she could learn important tips for improving her skills, pleasing her boss, and looking her prettiest.


She'd see ads like these.  Was she using the latest office equipment?


Today there's tremendous nostalgia for secretary style and there are actually entire sewing blogs dedicated to cultivating the vintage secretary look!  There's much less nostalgia for the job itself however.


In closing friends, were you or someone you love ever a secretary?  (I was, in the Eighties, for the president of a university press.)

How do you feel about secretaries -- was the job a convenient way to keep women with professional aspirations in their place, or was it a true pathway for women into the professional world?  (Or both?)

Who are your favorite secretaries from movies and TV?  Were you ever influenced by them, either in your style or your professional ambitions?

I want to hear from you -- but don't forget to take lunch, hon!

Tuesday, 23 November 2010

Trend Watching: the Future of Home Sewing


Readers, when you sew all day and write a sewing blog, it's easy to lose perspective. 

Before I learned how to sew, I didn't know anybody who even owned a sewing machine.  Today, I shun anyone who can't use the word presser foot in a sentence, and if they don't know what a feed dog is, I'm not interested.  I think it's totally normal to sew bras, girdles, and crinolines, moreover, and snicker at the men who don't.  I just assume everyone sews.


Still, from time to time I try to step back and look at the big picture.  Where are we today, with regard to home sewing? Are we losing more sewists than we're gaining?  Are pattern companies expanding or shrinking?  Are we still in a period of contraction -- fewer stores, narrower options, diminished quality  -- or is there new energy, new interest, and new innovations? 

I love to read about trends, and a really fun site to visit is trendwatching.com, which reports on trends around the world, primarily for industry.  They issue monthly reports about what's going on, particularly in 'emerging' markets, and it can be inspiring to those of us confronted daily with signs of decline to know that in other parts of the world, business is booming and people are energized. (These are reports on current trends, not predictions for the future, btw.)


Friends, today I have an assignment for you. Consider yourselves field reporters-for-a-day.  What are the trends you see in your neck of the woods?  Are people you know excited about sewing, or could they not care less?  Where is the growth, and where is the decline?  Let's hear from all the continents!

If you hang around sites like Pattern Review, you'd think the whole world was in a tizzy about overpriced Featherweights, and unbalanced thread tension was a bigger problem than, say, nuclear disarmament.  I'm not sure that's true.

So just how big is home sewing?

If you wanted to sink some money into it, where would you put it?  What would your advice be to someone who wanted to invest in it?


Trend watchers of the world, we need to hear from you!  (And please tell us where you're writing from.)

Thursday, 21 October 2010

Spreading the home-sewing meme


Friends, do you ever feel like you spend a disproportionate amount of your day talking/thinking/writing about sewing?

Do you ever catch friends or colleagues, when you mention sewing, rolling their eyes, glancing at their watches, and suddenly having to catch the 5:15 train -- and they drive to work?  Do you yourself retreat daily to the comforting, marshmallow, everybody-sews-here worlds of Pattern Review, BurdaStyle, and Male Pattern Boldness?

Between my 30th high school reunion earlier this month, recent family get togethers (my brother's wedding is three weeks away), and my busy work-the-room lifestyle, I find myself talking about sewing all the time.  I have told the story of how I learned to sew (which you can read here) so many times, I can recite it in my sleep.

Sometimes I feel like the President of the Treadle Association of America or the International Mens Sewing Alliance. 

But do you think I'm converting anybody?  I wonder.


Wise readers, what's the best way to spread the home-sewing meme (a meme is essentially a message), in your opinion?  How do we grow home sewing?

Yesterday I met up with the friend of an online sewing friend, a lovely young woman from France, for my third visit to the jaw-droppingly wacky "Japan Fashion Now" exhibit at FIT and a stroll through Chelsea with the chihuahuas.  We talked a lot about sewing machines, sewing, blogging, fashion, you name it.  I had such a lovely time and it was a real spirit-lifter, but I didn't get the sense that Anne was going to start sewing any time soon.

For one thing, she has our mutual sewing friend making a lot of her clothes.  This must stop!


I know many of you have been sewing for decades and have lived through the dramatic contraction of the home sewing industry: local fabric stores closing, fewer independent sewing machine manufacturers and vendors, an increased focus on quilting among the vendors that remain, fewer patterns for sale, and so on.  It's admittedly depressing.

Yet at the same time we have all these sewing websites and communities, countless online fabric and notion resources, sites like eBay and Etsy where you can purchase old patterns, books, and vintage sewing machines, and countless sewing blogs.  Nobody with Internet access needs sew in isolation!


Could it be that home sewing has bottomed out and is growing once again?  Has a generation raised in Gap clothes soured on mass-produced fashion?

How can we successfully spread the home-sewing meme?  What do you think would help convert non-sewers into passionate sew-zombies like us? (What turned you into one?)

Have you ever successfully turned someone on to sewing?  Did you actually have to give them a machine to get them started?

World conquest may not be within our reach -- not right away.  But a little benign evangelism never hurt.  It's in our collective interest to take action.

Let's think strategically.

Ideas, people, ideas!

Sunday, 10 October 2010

Sewing and "The Secret"


Giggle, gasp, or gag, you've probably heard of The Secret.

This is the internationally best-selling book that explains that hidden-for-centuries-and-suddenly-revealed -- Today on Oprah! -- ancient truth, the "law of attraction."  The law of attraction says, in essence, visualize it and it will be yours (or, what you think about is what will come true).

Now frankly, I thought the law of attraction was if you showered on Saturday night, you might come home Sunday in the same clothes (wink, wink), but I digress.

Readers, I won't lie, I have read The Secret.  OK, I didn't actually read it, I watched the movie, but it's the same secret.  I've made dream boards, or treasure maps, or whatever they're called.  I cut out a lot of photos of tropical island beaches from magazines like Condé Nast Traveler (which are filled with little else) and I did make it to San Juan due in part to a prize won at gay bingo.  (I'm not kidding.)  Coincidence? 


Still, I think The Secret is a lot of phony baloney.

And yet...

I do believe that if you invest a little time in getting clear about what you want, you might have a better chance of getting it, if only because you're less likely to be distracted by all the other things that life throws your way.

Let me give you an example.

My alternate title for today's blog entry was "Sunday Sewing Wish List."  I thought it might be fun to ask ourselves, with regard to sewing, what it is we want or even genuinely need, and then see if we could magnetize these things into our lives.  Fun, right?

Most of you may know that I recently treated myself to a Dritz sleeve board.  I'd been wanting one for months but couldn't justify the cost -- not exorbitant at around $25 but high for something whose sole purpose is ironing shirtsleeves; you can't even throw it at a cockroach.  Having priced them all over the place including online, I decided to just bite the bullet and make the investment and I am so glad I did: my sleeves have never looked better and I don't know how I ever ironed shirtsleeves before (well, I do: badly).   

OK, I didn't exactly magnetize the sleeve board, but I knew I wanted it, I invested a lot of thought in it, and lo and behold: I have one!

Now today, it is all I can do to resist traveling via subway to a certain hip neighborhood to look at a certain prized sewing machine posted for sale on a certain website.  It's a vintage model I've long lusted after but whose price on eBay was always bid up higher than I could ever justify spending.  Can you guess which machine it is?
 

Nope, it's not a Bernina.  I'd be more forthcoming, but with readers like my sewing machine-hoarding friend Johanna, I need to be circumspect.

Anyway, I bring this up because, having a clear sense of what my sewing needs truly are, I can't pretend not to know that I do not have any reason to purchase this machine though I do have to kill a few hours later today as Michael has a group class going on in the living room.

Plus it's selling for about a third of what it normally costs on eBay.  But still... no.    I have my Kenmore, my Elna, my Pfaff, my two Necchis, my Brother, my Pfaff, my Viking, my Singers: Spartan, Genie, 15-91, and treadle.  What would I do with another machine, where would I put it?

No.

Which brings me back to The Secret.

If I hadn't sat down and thought about what I want to manifest in my life sewing-wise, I just might find myself heading out to -- well, I can't say where but a borough that is not Manhattan -- to inspect and perhaps even purchase probably the coolest sewing machine ever at a price I will probably never find again!

I have The Secret to thank for my centered calm and firm focus.


Nope, it's not Little Betty.

So readers of varied spiritual backgrounds and some pretty kooky beliefs expressed in skin art, what sewing item or items do you wish to manifest in your lives?  Is there something you truly need?  Tailors Ham?  Class 66 bobbins?  A new ironing board?  A ruffler?

Is there something you don't necessarily need, but want -- oh, how you want it! -- another Featherweight?  A Babylock Jet-Air threading serger?  A Dritz My Double dress form?  More Facebook friends? (whoops, I'm projecting)

Visualize it and it will may be yours!

Please tell the universe and the rest of us: What is it you WANT?  (and why)

We promise not to judge.




Thursday, 9 September 2010

Competitive Sewing - Your Thoughts Please!


Wise readers, what's your take on competitive sewing?

Do you engage in it yourself and/or watch it on TV?  Do you think it's fun?

Last year I won the Pattern Review Beginner contest with the flowered shirt that currently appears in my blog header (to be replaced with a Burt Reynolds-inspired Nude-With-Sewing Machine portrait as per reader requests).  Winning that contest (Rachel of A Sewn Wardrobe came in second) was extremely motivating and validating too.



But sometimes I wonder if, in the long run, all these competitions don't take some of the joy out of sewing or aren't perhaps an expression of something dark in our collective souls and I don't mean black cotton sateen.

The idea of selecting a winner suggests that the vast majority of us will always be losers (or at least not winners).  Is that the way we like it-- somehow affirming how we already see ourselves in a celebrity-worshiping culture that defines success as winning the big prize, earning the big salary, being the most famous?

That hunger to win is fed by television shows like American Idol, Project Runway and even The Bachelor -- i.e, there's just not enough love (or men, or prizes) for everyone, so you have to fight for what's available.

In a world of dwindling resources and a growing gap between rich and poor (and rich and poor countries), this seems to mirror the world at large in uncomfortable ways we may not even recognize.

I've entered a few other competitions on Pattern Review, most notoriously my ruffle-collared A-line shift in the Little Black Dress contest of 2009, which was won by none other than the Selfless Songstress herself with her homage to Breakfast at Tiffany's.  (If poor Audrey is turning her grave, Edith Head must be spinning like a top.)  OK, I'll admit it, it's a lovely dress; dinner with Elaine the other night has worn me down.



Pattern Review runs a lot of competitions and many of them are very popular and I do enjoy checking out the entries from time to time.

I think many sewers find competitions motivating, whether they win or not.  It's a nice way to raise your profile on the site too, if that's important to you.

I've only seen Project Runway once or twice since I don't own a television set.  I thought it was fun in the way "Reality" TV is fun: who doesn't enjoy a good cliff-hanger or a pull-out-all-the-stops emotional breakdown?  It's likely that Project Runway has given fashion design a real boost (in popularity if not as a sustainable career).  I'm not sure if it has any effect on home sewing, however, though there is a Simplicity Project Runway pattern line.

You probably know about that Burda dress I've been kvetching about for weeks now.  The fact that it's part of some sort of competition (albeit a small and unremunerative one) has made it just a little less joyful for me, frankly.  I don't like to sew for sport so much lately.  

In closing, what's your take on competitive sewing? Is it just good clean fun or does it feed our baser, cut-throat survival instincts?

Does competition diminish us somehow, especially in a creative arena like fashion design or sewing?

Since we're all sewing different things and have different skills, aren't we generally comparing apples and oranges?


To what extent do you think these contests are primarily about the sponsors and the publicity they can garner? (It's a great way to promote a brand, you must admit.)

Finally, why this, why now?  Do you think the focus on, and popularity of, competition in something like sewing -- whether in a high profile context like Project Runway or the more homespun Pattern Review -- is a sign of the times?  If so, what does it say about us?

Open your blue booklets and begin!

Thursday, 6 May 2010

Sewing, Sex, and the Internet


CORRECTION: The above title should read, "Sewing and the Internet." 

I often wonder what it would have been like to learn to sew before the Internet.  How much harder it would have been!

Consider some of the ways the Internet has helped me since I bought my first sewing machine last May:
  • It allowed me to explore countless sewing machine reviews, for both new and old machines, via websites like Amazon, Overstock, and Pattern Review.
  • On You Tube, I found instructional videos that taught me how to thread a bobbin, pull up the bobbin thread, insert a zipper, etc.
  • I was able to find patterns, both new and vintage, on sites like eBay and Etsy.  I still don't know where they sell men's patterns in NYC!
  • I found a vibrant sewing community on Pattern Review and it was there that I met my first sewing buddy, Brian (of Briansews).
  • Before I'd ever heard about the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) bookstore, I was able to explore sewing books, and buy them inexpensively, on Amazon and Half.com.
  • I was able to launch a sewing blog and connect with an even larger group of sewers.
I can't imagine how I would have managed without the Internet; it has given me so much access to people and information I wouldn't otherwise have had, even though I live in New York City.  I imagine it has an even greater impact on those who live far from fabric stores and other people who sew.


But I also wonder what we've lost because of the Internet. These are primarily hunches; correct me if you think I'm wrong, peeps:
  • With so many people having easy access to online fabric and notions stores, many local stores haven't been able to compete and have closed their doors.
  • Ditto stores that sell sewing machines and or offer classes.  Increasingly, people are comfortable making purchases online, and are likely to do so especially if they're offered a better price.  Buying online also means for most people, not having to get into a car and drive.
  • Being able to connect with sewers all over the world, we're less inclined to explore more local opportunities to connect with people who share our interest.  We're no longer dependent on our neighbors and local community and might find ourselves less inclined to reach out to them.
I also wonder how the Internet has affected those who teach sewing for a living.  Professionals now have to compete with anyone who wants to share an instructional video on You Tube, some of which are very well done.  On the other hand, professional instructors are better able to find their audience -- and vice versa.


I've mentioned Pattern Review as the site that has had the greatest impact on my sewing.  It's great to know that if I have a sewing-related question, I can post it on the PR message board and more than likely have a response within an hour (and sometimes in just minutes!).  Being able to post pattern reviews and receive feedback, as well as entering contests, has been enormously validating and motivating for me as well.

BurdaStyle is another popular online resource, though for me, it doesn't have as strong a sense of community as Pattern Review does; I've never really warmed up to it.

I know Threads is also a popular resource.  But when there's something I need to know where I want visual instruction, I'm most likely to search You Tube.  I have found countless videos there on all things sewing-related.  It's so nice to be able to watch someone do a blind hem stitch than to read about it.

So how about you, peeps?  How has the Internet affected your sewing?  If you learned to sew before the Internet, were things very different for you then?  Were you able to find other people who sewed?  What are your favorite online resources?

Aside from all the good things the Internet has done for sewing, do you think it has had a negative impact in any way?

I'd love to hear what you think!