Thursday, 29 July 2010

Kanye West Performs Good A** Job For Facebook





Life’s a B*tch on her period! – Yeezy

Kanye West turned the Facebook headquarters into a spoken word session as he stood on a table and recited the lyrics to some of the songs off of his upcoming album “Good Ass Job” earlier today. Before performing “Mama’s Boyfriend”, he told the audience of geeks “Pardon me, it’s a lot of the use of the N Word…But I’m allowed to use it”.

This footage is a nice little teaser for what’s to come on the new album! So many classic lines in these clips…


Info courtesy of necolebitchie.com

Kanye is back on twitter @kanyewest

Learning to Sew: Peter's TOP TEN TIPS!



Increasingly I am asked how I learned to sew and what advice I would give beginners.  Since I only started a year ago this is easy -- it's all very fresh in my mind!  

So here, in no particular order, is my entirely subjective, highly biased top ten tips list:

1. Start off with a good machine.  I can't imagine anything more discouraging than learning to sew with a headache-inducing, temperamental sewing machine.  I think you all know by now that I am extremely biased toward vintage machines, straight stitchers in particular.  But most people these days start with zigzaggers and that's OK.

Good used machines can be had for less than $50 on Craigslist, eBay, and at your local thrift store.  Maybe your neighbor or a family member has one in storage.  Make sure you clearly ask the seller/donor whether the machine has any mechanical problems.  The last thing you need is to bring home your first sewing machine and discover the bobbin winding mechanism doesn't work (sound familiar, you-know-who?)  A manual is always helpful and if missing, can usually be downloaded online for a few dollars.

NOTE: There's nothing wrong with spending more for a high quality machine, but when you're starting out you don't really know which features you'll value most.  I recommend thinking of your first machine as a starter and spending the big bucks later, if at all.



2. Avoid (avoidable) complexity.   This relates to sewing machines and so much else in life.  The simpler the machine the less is likely to be/go wrong with it.  If you're interested in making clothes, you don't need fancy embroidery stitches, which is the selling point for new machines.  Nothing has changed mechanically in decades and nothing has improved, though some sewing machine companies may try to convince you otherwise.  I know that some people prefer the "new" and that's fine: it keeps our economy afloat, or somebody's....

Just keep it simple and don't let yourself be wowed by fancy computerized geegaws you're unlikely ever to use.

3. Buy yourself a good beginner's book.  In my experience, there aren't that many of these; I've looked.  There are countless excellent encyclopedic sewing guides, like the Readers Digest guide, Vogue's etc.  These are great to have on hand for reference but I would not use them to get started -- too much info.

My favorite beginner's sewing book is Diana Rupp's Sew Everything Workshop.  I have raved about this book so often you'd think Diana would have sent me a few free copies.  Diana walks you through step-by-step in the gentlest, most caring way, and the book itself is beautiful to look at AND spiral bound, which is a tremendous help.  It also includes many simple patterns for some basic garments and home dec items that are cute and trendy (and on real pattern paper too).   They're mainly for women, of course, but not exclusively.   I made my first garment -- a pair of boxer shorts -- from a pattern in Diana's book and I still wear the results!





4. Start small.  If you follow Diana's book you won't have to think about this.  It's more fun to sew something simple and do it well than to tackle something too advanced and have it turn out crappy.  You'll learn either way, for sure, but some of us get very discouraged when our results don't match our expectations.   Whether we're making a pencil case or an evening gown, choice of fabric and other details is going to make a huge difference in our enthusiasm and happiness with the result.  It's not what you sew but how you sew it.

5. Practice.    Like any other skill, sewing takes some practice.  After a while things that seemed difficult at first, like matching the edges of two separate pieces of fabric at 5/8", become second nature.  When I got my first sewing machine, I just loved to sew scraps of fabric together -- any fabric!  It all seemed very miraculous to me at the time and still does!

6. Lower the stakes.  A lot of perfectionists are drawn to sewing.  People who are highly concerned with well-fitting clothes and cultivating a unique look through home sewn outfits are often the ones who obsess over getting things "right"  in all aspects of life.  I've sewed many dozens of garments and some came out better than others.  I try not to make sewing a reflection of my self-worth or engage in any other self-defeating behaviors.  Sewing is just a fun craft.  With skill you can make some fantastic things but ultimately, most of us don't have to sew to have clothes to wear.  Many of us already had bulging closets before we even picked up a needle.

Sewing should be fun.   Sew like a child and enjoy it.  You're only going to get better with practice.

7. Make up your own rules.  I am a big believer in trusting one's intelligence.  Some things you read in a sewing book or in pattern directions -- how to insert a zipper, say -- may sound unnecessarily complex.  Don't be afraid to try it your own way.  The people who wrote those directions are just people.  Maybe there's a simpler method and YOU are the person who will have discovered it.  If it doesn't work, you'll have learned something.  You have nothing to lose provided you're not experimenting on your nearly-finished garment made of $75/yd. silk shantung.

8. Find a sewing community.  I could not have learned as fast as I have without the support and encouragement of the Pattern Review community.  Other sewists prefer Burdastyle, Craftstylish, or other sites.  But you really need to make some sewing friends, not only at the beginning but all along your sewing journey.  It makes things so much more fun.  A dirty little secret is that I rarely looked at sewing blogs until I started my own, but blogging is a great way to connect with and/or create your own community.  Some of the blogs I enjoy most are written by people who are just starting out, like Elizabeth or Rachel.  Highly entertaining and educational!

9. Make sewing your play and not your work.  Life is stressful enough without adding even more stress.  Sewing can be challenging, especially when things aren't working out the way you'd like them to.  But remember why you're sewing in the first place.  You didn't learn to walk in a day or in a week and you're not going to master sewing in that amount of time.  But imagine how much you'll know a year from now if you just keep plugging along, making mistakes and learning from them.  Just keep going and maintain a sense of humor.



10. Make something you really like.  I've heard a lot of stories from people who were taught -- and turned off -- sewing in Home Economics class where they were forced to make something they hated, like an apron or an ugly skirt.  As an adult, you make the rules.  It's much more inspiring to sew something you might actually want to wear.  You don't have to pay a lot for the fabric (beautiful cotton prints can be had for $2 yard if you look and cotton is an easy fabric to start with since it irons so easily).  I would never call myself a Selfish Seamster (what, and invite a lawsuit?), but I do think sewing for oneself, especially at the beginning, has its virtues.  You don't have to please anyone but yourself and you know best how you want something to look or fit.  It's just plain more fun.

BONUS ITEM!  DING DING DING!

11.  Take a class.  Don't take a class.  A lot of people ask me if they should take a class.  We're all different.  Some people really enjoy the social aspect of a class or the way a class organizes their week or (potentially) keeps them from making costly mistakes.  I didn't take a class though I wouldn't rule it out for the future.   I'd recommend that anybody who wants to take a class take one and anybody who wants to learn on their own do so.  It's not either/or.

I will say that given the tremendous amount of information available in books, DVDs, on YouTube videos, and on sewing blogs, nobody has to take a class to get the information they need.  All those "sewing secrets" have already been revealed.  If you don't believe me, just Google "sewing secrets."

So wise readers, anything to add?  Anything that would be in your top ten that I haven't included? 

How did you learn to sew?

Hop in!

P.S. -- For more info, check out my entries under SEWING BASICS in my archive, or just click here.  

Wednesday, 28 July 2010

May your days be merry and bright...


Kids, it's still 1942 at MPB for better or for worse.  So bring out the popcorn and let's watch "Holiday Inn,"  "For Me and My Gal, "You Were Never Lovelier" and "Casablanca" -- a quadruple feature.  Just stay home from work, OK?

Never one to let parental visits get in the way of my sewing (I just throw 'em out at a certain point), I did make some notable progress on my 1942 Hollywood dress yesterday.

Skirt done!





Obviously this will need to be hemmed, among other things.  The bodice is almost done; it needs sleeves, waistline pleats and gathers and then to be attached to the skirt.



As you can see, the skirt is quite swingy and drapey.  Upon closer examination, the slightly-off-grain issue I mentioned yesterday seems less dramatic; in fact I think it's actually supposed to be somewhat on the bias.  As far as matching the pattern on either side of the skirt, well the pattern is quite busy and falls naturally into pleats, so I don't think it's a problem; we'll see what the finished garment looks like.

Here's a close-up of the gathered yoke...



And the neckline.  This will be all-but-covered by a bow of some sort.



I really want to finish this today, if possible.  I may let the skirt hang another day or so before hemming just in case it needs to stretch itself out a bit more.  I also have to track down Cathy, who was last seen sitting vigil outside Lindsay Lohan's minimum security prison.   And then there's the question of shoes.

My but that flowered fabric is busy, isn't it?  We'll have to tone that down somehow.

And so the day begins....

Even if you can't stay home today, please enjoy Fred Astaire dancing with one of my favorite gowns worn by a popular starlet of the time whose name escapes me.  (Dance begins at 2:30 for opponents of lip-synching)

Enjoy!

Gadgets // Panasonic to Unleash Consumer-level 3D Camcorder


If you are a fan of the – in our opinion – grossly overrated Avatar the movie and convinced that you are the next James Cameron, your chance to shine in the spotlight has just arrived – as electronics giant Panasonic is reported to be rolling out its very own consumer-level 3D camcorder very soon. It seems Panasonic has been bitten by the 3D bugs and is embracing the 3D revolution, as they have recently just shown off a slew of 3DTvs and gadgets back in Japan.
Details and specifics on the 3D camcorder are not yet clear – but the device is expected to be unveiled soon in a Tokyo press event scheduled on July 28th. A few sources have reported that the 3D camcorder will be about the same size as your regular consumer camcorder. It will have an integrated pair of lenses in the front.
The device is also not expected to carry a high price tag – in fact, it will be more in line with the plain Jane non-3D camcorder, rather than their more expensive professional video camera line. It would make sense for the device to support Full HD videos, since their Viera HDTVs, which are 3D capable, support the high resolutions.
Truth be told, we are not a fan of 3Ds that aren’t done right. We just hope this means there will be better 3D movies to watch in the not-so-distant future.


Info courtesy of jdmag.com

Tuesday, 27 July 2010

The Making Of Lyndsey

Here we have Lyndsey a talented young lady that does a great job at cutting her own hair and even some of her friends, a challenging task requiring a special tool and technich. Lyndsey is very professional, has a great disposition  and best yet is a natural in front of the camera. One of the most exciting moments during our shoot was stumbling into this laundromat  with no one insight. We came to the conclusion that Lyndsey has the largest wardrobe.
Stylist: Melanie Garbo
Hair & MU: Erick La Torre
Photos: Frank Polanco







Working on the 1942 Hollywood Dress


So, 1942 -- I remember it well!  Well, not really; my connection to it is mainly through Hollywood movies (actually, that's my connection to most things).   For much of the world there was a war on, and that's how many of us still define the period: The WWII Years.


Hats were popular, but fashion was relatively subdued: many textiles became scarce for the home sewer, who had to limit herself to what was available.  And the mood was more somber than that of the late Thirties, fashion-wise.  Plus everything was in black and white.

Hollywood pattern #910 is very typical of women's clothes of the period: a one-piece dress with a simple four-panel skirt, attached bodice, gathered yokes, and padded shoulders.  Demure and modest (there's that word again!), with the hemline just below the knee.  Nothing fancy; just something you'd read a letter in.



Of all the vintage dress patterns I've worked with up to now, this was the most fragile.  I'm not sure it had ever been used, but the tissue paper had aged badly -- it was very discolored and ripped easily.  It should probably be traced.





This is one of those patterns that's unprinted but rather has little holes and "V" cuts that signal where seams line up or where a dart goes.



Piece "E" is the front yoke.



The instructions are detailed but brief.  It's not a complicated dress. 



So I cut this very shifty fabric yesterday and hung on my dress form overnight.  Then I started sewing, beginning with the skirt.

I tried hard to get the grain lined up correctly.  You can see already that while the two front skirt panels match nicely grain-wise....



...the back skirt panels do not, the piece on the right coming into the seam at an angle.



I have so much of this fabric that I may just cut those back skirt panels again.  It's really hard to keep the grain straight with this fabric and obviously the skirt just hangs anyway.  Am I being too much of a perfectionist?

I try to learn as much as I can from each project I undertake, and I don't want to learn that grain really does make a huge difference, even on a droopy four-panel skirt.  Also, while it's not readily visible, I can see that mismatch plainly.

The front bow, which I'd like to include, can be sewed, untied, to either side of the front yoke.  I'm a little reluctant to do this because I'm not sure how this fabric is going to look tied in a bow.  It's certainly not going to look crisp like this:



So maybe I'll experiment; I have some black cotton sateen that would make a much sharper-looking bow than this droopy rayon blend.  Thoughts?

I have some non-sewing related things to take care of today so I'm not sure how far I'm going to get on this.

Wise readers, how much of a perfectionist are you when you sew?  Will you go back and start over if something goes awry or just live with it?  Where do you draw the line?  Should I just leave the skirt back panels as-is (as-are?)

Have a great day, everybody!

Trussardi 1911 - 2011 Spring Collection






Talk about a home-run hitter, Trussardi's collection is the most comprehensive I've viewed thus far. They mix the best trends with forwarding-thinking luxury fashion, while mixing in retro American style the whole way.

The collection has something for every type of guy: the traditionalist, the prep, the rocker, the 'whatever category you put may find yourself in', there's atleast a couple pieces in Trussardi's spring collection that's for you.



click on images to enlarge