Wednesday 27 October 2010

Men's Western Jacket - THE FINAL FRONTIER



Western jacket, final frontier -- get it?

Good grief, I am still working on this jacket.  Apparently even Kwik Sew patterns are not that kwik but I can definitely see the lite at the end of the tunnel.

Where did I leave off yesterday?

Oh yeah, so before I attached those pocket flaps, I wanted to make sure I could make decent buttonholes on the velveteen.  Luckily they came out nicely.
 

I used my ever-reliable Singer buttonholer.  If you have a straight stitch Singer, you really need one of these.  You can easily find one on eBay or Etsy pretty cheap.   And if you don't own a straight stitch machine by now, WHAT are you waiting for?  The apocalypse? 


I decided to interface my facings with a weft-weight woven interfacing.  It prevents stretch but doesn't add too much stiffness.





Then I attached back to front.



Since the fabric has some stretch, I decided to reinforce my shoulder seam with twill tape.  I stitched it to the seam allowance before top stitching.



Part of what makes this project slow is that nearly every seam has to be stitched four times.  First I sew the seam, then I serge the seam allowance, then I edgestitch with the blue thread, and then I topstitch with the copper thread.  It's a lot.

Next came the collar.  I made my undercollar out of that faux suede I had in my stash.





The sleeves were a PITA but that was expected.  After considerable ripping and restitching (I wanted the topstitched sleeve seam to meet the topstitched back yoke seam at the same point on both sides -- easier said than done), I did manage to get them on reasonably well.



And that's it, friends.  I have to attach cuffs, waistband, make buttonholes, and add jeans buttons.  The neckline facings will have to be stitched down.  But you can definitely get an idea of where this is going.  I like it.



Tune in tomorrow for the big reveal and don't forget: a Singer straight stitch machine (66, 15-91, 201, 99 or 192K -- have I missed any?) for Christmas.  Or Winter Solstice.  Or whenever.

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